Turbo Drain Hose

 

The turbo oil drain return line is no longer available from the factory. This can be a problem if it cracks and you have a major oil leak.  I went through three of these in a 12 month period long ago when I decided the factory turbo support bracket was not needed.  It seems the vibration that resulted in the turbo caused the line to crack.

I have heard of mixed results from some of the after-market replacements.  Whether this resulted from a poor install, or a poorly made piece, I cannot say.

When Larry Myhres posted pictures of the one he built for his new engine, I thought it was worth saving because it is a totally professional job and looks really good.  He was kind enough to supply all the parts numbers as well as numerous pictures of the install.

Note that it is very important that the drain line be large enough in diameter to be able to return all the oil straight to the block without creating any back pressure to the turbo which would lead to a blown seal in the turbo and a lot of smoke.  For this reason, he used -10 AN line.  Don't be tempted to use smaller.

Here is the list of parts required to construct the drain line.

Vibrant # 2849 turbo drain adapter
Russell fittings 
660973 -10AN to 1/2 NPT 45degree
610043 straight -10AN hose end
610113 45 degree -10 AN hose end
3" of -10 Hose

           

Turbo Drain Adapter                                                                             45 deg hose end                                                              Straight hose end

 

45 deg  -10 AN to 1/2 NPT

 

The turbo drain adapter bolts to the turbo where the factory drain line bolted.  If you have one of the thin paper gaskets, you can use it, or you can use rtv like Right Stuff, or one of the other oil resistant rtv's.  Use a very thin coat of rtv so it does not squeeze out when you tighten the adapter to the turbo.  Be sure you clean the mating faces well. The 45 deg hose end then connects to the adapter.

On the block end, the 45 deg -10 to 1/2 NPT screws into the block.  It should be tightened until it is pointing toward the 45 deg hose end that you screwed onto the Drain Adapter.  Use some pipe dope or rtv on the threads into the block to ensure there will be no future oil leaks.  Then the straight hose end is screwed onto it.  When lined up properly there should be a very straight shot from the turbo end to the block end.

Now cut the appropriate length of the -10 hose to go between the two hose ends.  This hose is stiff so try to get it just the right length to fit without any undue extra, or not quite long enough.  This might be the most tedious part of the process.  Too long will make it hard to screw on straight and too short will make it want to pull apart when the fittings are tightened.

If you take your time, you will end up with a totally professional looking arrangement that will last a lifetime.

Below are several pictures of the installed unit.  Note that the engine was out of the car which probably makes it easier to do and it surely makes it easier to see how it went together.

Below is a picture taken from the front showing the complete assembly.  Note how little hose is actually exposed.

 

Another picture below of the connection to the turbo adapter from the rear

 

And finally, below is another shot of the block end.